Commercial Snow Blowers - Designed for Prolonged and Heavy Use

If you deal with a lot of snow or you move snow for a living, then you'll want to look at commercial snow blowers.

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Commercial snow blowers are available in a number of styles and configurations. This article will help to explain some of the differences, and what to look for.

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Commercial Snow Blowers Come in One Stage and Two Stage Models

A one stage model may sound simpler, but there's more to moving snow than you might think!

Two stage models move snow in a 2-step process. With a two stage machine, the first process is basically to move the snow to where it can be blown aside. When you look at a two stage commercial blower, you'll see two sets of "reels" or augers in the front. These augers are angled so as to move the snow toward the center of the machine.

The second stage of the process is then to take the snow that has been guided to the center and blow it aside. The augers will continue to move the snow toward the middle, where the blower can grab it and throw it.

Commercial snow blowers typically do not come in one stage models, since the professional snow mover needs to move a lot of snow quickly and easily.

A one stage blower combines the snow moving and throwing processes. Usually, though, this is a very inefficient operation. Reviews indicate that there can be as much snow left in place with a one stage blower as is moved.

What Type of Snow Blower Model is Best for You?

If you live in the mountains and expect several feet of snow a year, then a two stage model may be best for you.

One stage snow blowing machines are best for areas that get 4 inches or less of snow in a storm. They are just not designed to handle large snowfall amounts. These snow movers can range in price from 0 to 0. The auger has a rubber-tipped blade, allowing the machine to come in direct contact with your level deck or sidewalk.

There are larger one stage snow movers that can handle up to 8 inches of snow. These typically range from 0 to 0. This type of machine is good for decks, sidewalks and driveways that are level. They are not good for gravel driveways.

One stage models can be electric powered or gas powered. Many of them include electric start, which is very nice. This means you don't have to pull the cord, like you might with your lawn mower.

Two stage commercial snow blowers are designed for those who deal with a lot of snow, perhaps 8 inches or more per storm. These machines do not come in contact directly with the ground, they ride a little above the surface at maybe ½ to 1 inch. This allows the machine to do a good job on gravel driveways.

Two stage commercial snow blowers also come with electric start in many cases, which can make outdoor chores much more pleasant. This type of machine is particularly designed for those who move a lot of snow - either as a business shoveling sidewalks or driveways, or just because you get a lot of snow where you live. Two stage blowers usually include a self-propelling feature. These machines can be quite heavy, 200 pounds and more, so it's nice to have the blower help you get through the snow.

Commercial snow blowers typically range from 0 at a minimum to as much as 00 or more.

You can get walk-behind commercial snow blowers, or you can get one that attaches to a skid loader or tractor. These will start in price at 00, generally, and are available at most farm or implement dealers.

Commercial Models are Designed for Heavy Use

One additional factor to bear in mind with commercial snow blowers is that they are designed for continual, heavy use. The average homeowner is not going to run his blower for more than a few hours at a time.

However, if your business is moving snow, then you'll want to consider that a cheap machine is most likely not going to hold up under continual use.

If you need a model that will keep on working even after 8 or 10 straight hours, then you'll want to look seriously at commercial snow blowers.

Commercial Snow Blowers - Designed for Prolonged and Heavy Use

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American Lawn Mower 1ST-SP Reel Mower Grass Catcher Feature

Fits with 14, 16, and 18-inch width reel mowers
Acutal width is 19.5-inches
Durable plastic bottom, polyester rot-resistant fabric, and a heavy-duty wire frame
Features galvanized steel bottom and adjustable attached hooks
Reel mower grass catcher prevents grass from being strewn across the lawn

American Lawn Mower 1ST-SP Reel Mower Grass Catcher Overview

The American Lawn Mower Company reel mower grass catcher prevents grass from being strewn across the lawn. For durability this grass catcher sports a plastic bottom, polyester rot-resistant fabric, and a heavy-duty wire frame. It features a galvanized steel bottom and adjustable attached hooks. The grass catcher conveniently folds down for easy storage. It fits with 14-, 16-, and 18-inch hand mowers.

American Lawn Mower 1ST-SP Reel Mower Grass Catcher Specifications

The value of a grass catcher is undeniable. If you don't want cut grass strewn across your lawn, you need to either rake after mowing or get a grass catcher. If you've decided a grass catcher is more of a necessity than an alternative, the question becomes what kind to get. One quality to look for is durability, because, let's face it, the grass catcher has a hard row to hoe, getting dragged over all sorts of terrain while wet grass and dirt are spewed into its basket. Another essential quality is rot resistance, because wet grass can cause some damage to frail fabric. This grass catcher sports a durable plastic bottom, polyester rot-resistant fabric, and a heavy-duty wire frame. In addition, it folds up compactly for easy storage. Though some assembly is required, it's neither difficult nor complicated.

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Dethatch Your Lawn to Keep it Healthy and Beautiful

A beautiful lawn is enjoyed not only by the homeowner but by neighbors and everyone who passes by. A beautiful lawn can be the envy of the neighborhood. Many people have cut back on lawn services to cut expenses in this poor economy and are doing it themselves. Learning how to properly care for a lawn requires understanding terms like dethatching. Experts say that dethatching your lawn is a necessary task if you want to have a beautiful lawn.

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Thatch is the layer of plant material both living and dead that can include grass clippings, leaves, dead stems and roots which reside between the roots of grass plants and the green grass. Thatch can develop quickly if you don't mow your lawn regularly and leave the large grass clippings for mulch. These large grass clippings decompose slowly and can create a thick layer of thatch. It's best to mow the lawn frequently so that the grass clippings are small and will decompose quickly. Thatch develops naturally also as the grass throws off roots, leaves, etc.. Some thatch is good because it protects the roots. Too much thatch stops the moisture, air and many nutrients from going into the soil. Lawns with too much thatch dry out quicker which makes the lawn turn brown particularly during a drought.

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How do you know if the thatch on your lawn is too thick? You can tell by looking at it but the thatch shouldn't be more than 1 inch deep on the lawn. If it is thicker than this it is a good idea to dethatch the lawn. Once this is done you should only have to dethatch every 2 or 3 years if you maintain your lawn regularly.

If you have a small lawn you can use a thatching rake. This rake slices into the lawn vertically and brings up all the dead material. It is best to rake in one direction to minimize damage to the grass roots. Once you have the dead thatch material on the surface you can use a leaf rake to rake it all up. The thatch makes great compost which can be reapplied to the lawn after it has decomposed.

If you have a large lawn you can rent a power rake, also called a vertical mower, from a equipment rental store. This machine has blades that spin vertically and pull the thatch to the surface as they cut into the layer of thatch.

The best time of year to dethatch a lawn is in the summer, fall or early spring. It shouldn't be done once growth has started in the spring because the grass needs the nutrients and energy stored in the roots.

Dethatch Your Lawn to Keep it Healthy and Beautiful

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American Lawn Mower SK-1 Reel Mower Sharpening Kit Feature

Reel mower sharpening kit keeps reel blades in top cutting form
Cuts down on mowing time;
Do-it-yourself kit allows users to sharpen their own mowers at home
Includes grinding compound, application brush, and back-lapping crank
Designed for use with 1705-16 and 1815-18 push mowers

American Lawn Mower SK-1 Reel Mower Sharpening Kit Overview

The American Lawn Mower Company reel mower sharpening kit is an easy way to keep reel blades in top cutting form. This do-it-yourself kit allows users to sharpen their own mowers at home. The kit contains everything you need for safe and effective sharpening, including a detailed instruction manual, grinding compound, application brush, and a special back-lapping crank. The kits is designed for use with 1705-16 and 1815-18 push mowers. Cutting down on mowing time, this sharpening kits gives you an , perfectly cut lawn.

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Machine - Primarily the a Soil-Working Tool

Not too long ago many people thought that a small garden tractor was just a grownup's "toy." This was when you could find handyman or high-school boy eager to spade up a garden, hoe the vegetable patch or mow the lawn at a price you could afford. The picture has certainly changed. Today, if you can even find anybody to do the work you are lucky. Then you have to compete with business and pay a comparable scale of wages. In many localities this is an impossible situation. Therefore, many people have had to get a small tractor and "do it themselves? Now the tractor is recognized as a valuable piece of garden equipment-definitely not a toy.

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As soon as these people began operating their tractors they discovered some things never before realized. Actually the machine is fun to operate and maintain... gone are the tinkering days of the Model T when an owner took pride in keeping it running in top shape himself. They also found that the tractor did an excellent job - comparable to any job done by hand in a fraction of the time. In fact, a garden tractor has spurred many into doing more gardening than they had done previously.

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If we can take a hint from people who already own garden tractors, we will select our tractor for the job it is to do. There are many different types of tractors and each one fits into one garden or another.

The smallest machine available is the small pulling-type. This tractor is basically a cultivating machine-and it does a good job, too. It is usually powered by a small engine of 1 to 2 horsepower. This may not seem like too much but it is ample for all cultivation and for using some attachments. The small size and light weight make the machine very easy to handle and maneuver, and even the women operate this type machine quite easily. But don't expect this machine to do the impossible-it is an inexpensive tractor for light work.

Small rotary tillers are first cousins to the small pulling type. This machine is a tiller with revolving tines or hooks, generally mounted in front of, or just below, the engine, which dig and chop the soil. The tines revolve in the same direction as wheels would and the action of the tines pulls the machine forward. There are some which also have propelling wheels. but the majority depend on the tines to pull the machine.

This machine is primarily a soil-working tool. The same chopping action is used both for preparation and cultivation of course, when preparing the soil the tines are allowed to go in deeper than when cultivating. Again, it is a small machine, which makes it easy to handle. It usually has an engine of 2 to 3 horsepower.

You may ask, "ls the engine powerful enough to turn and chop soil'?" It is, if you know what to expect of the machine. For instance, in a light sandy soil you may have to take care that the machine doesn't go in too deep. On the other hand, a heavy soil may demand two or three passes over the ground before it is worked to the depth and condition you desire. Also, don't expect this machine to chop up and pulverize a piece of heavy turf with heavy matted roots and stems with one pass. On these tough jobs you have to take your time. Still it is a lot easier and quicker than doing it by hand!

For real tough jobs of pulverizing soil, you may have to step up to the larger rotary tiller, which is the third machine from the left. This type of machine has a more powerful engine, 3 horsepower or more. The tiller is mounted behind the engine and it has power in the wheels. The tines, then, only chop soil and do not pull the engine. In fact, on some large tillers the tines revolve in the opposite direction of the wheels to provide better chopping.

This type of tiller is a workhorse. I have seen heavy turf pulverized into a seedbed with one pass. It, too, is used for both soil preparation and cultivation. This tiller is a fairly large machine and although the newer models are a lot easier to handle than some of the earlier ones, there are still times when a strong hand is needed when the going gets tough.

The large pulling tractor is comparable to the large tiller. It, too, is powered with engines of 3 horsepower and over and is designed for heavier work than its little brother. With this machine you will be able to tackle larger jobs with more ease. One such job is plowing. The plow used is a smaller version of the ones used by farmers. It does a good job on almost any kind of soil. In fact, there are many vegetable farmers who do all their work with tractors of this size.

Plowing isn't the only thing it does, however. It is also a cultivator and can operate many other attachments. Like the large tiller, it, too, is a man's machine.

The four-wheeled riding tractor is the largest for garden use. Actually it is a light farm machine but of course not nearly as large as the standard farm tractor. It has a more powerful engine than the large two-wheeled tractors usually 5 to 8 horsepower, which is ample to carry the operator and do work, too. The riding tractor is very easy to operate. In many cases, owners of this type of machine say the whole family uses it, even the children. But you need room to maneuver this type tractor; it certainly would be out of place on a property that was only 50 by 100 feet.

Size of property, then, is the next consideration, but by no means the most important. In surveying garden tractor owners we found that people selected the machines for the job they wanted done, regardless of the size of property. There were actual cases where, people with property of less than an acre used machines of the larger type because they wanted to do both plowing and cultivating. In other cases; people with five acres or more were perfectly satisfied with the smaller machines because they had their heavy plowing done for them. Even the "city-lot" boys found use for a small tractor. These people fell into that large "can't-get-anybody-to-help" group. Their tractors are used to get the jobs done and still allow them time for golf and the beach.

Tractor attachments are another consideration. Although most people purchase tractors for cultivating and plowing, many also find their additional attachments very much worthwhile. The various mowing attachments rank high on the preferred list. These include the sickle-bar mower for hay and tall grass, as well as the standard lawn mowers - rotary and reel type.

These attachments are available for almost all garden tractors. Other attachments available include hauling cart, bulldozer blade, snow plow, snow blower and lawn edger. Again, the size of the machine will govern how much work can be expected from the attachment. The various mowing attachments work well on all sizes of tractors and they are even available for some of the rotary tillers because very little power is demanded. On the other hand, the use of the dozer blade may be limited on the smaller machines. It will do its share of work, but don't expect it to push the same amount of soil as a large machine.

One problem with attachments is the ease, or difficulty, of getting them on and off the tractor. Yes, there are complaints, but mostly on the older models. Manufacturers have this problem in mind and are doing all in their power to make appropriate design changes to improve the ease of changing attachments.

Buying a tractor should be considered as carefully as buying an automobile or large household appliance. Shop around and know exactly what you are buying. Some tractors are sold only through garden stores. Still others are only available through exclusive dealers. Don't hesitate to ask for a demonstration preferably on your own garden... if you are buying in a store or through a dealer. Also check on service. Very few machines are absolutely perfect when they come from the factory and some adjustments will be necessary. Above all, take care of your machine and it, in turn, will take care of your garden chores for many years.

Machine - Primarily the a Soil-Working Tool

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Fiskars 7870 Uproot Lawn and Garden Weeder Feature

Arthritis Foundation ease-of-use commendation
Four durable stainless steel serrated claws
No bending, kneeling, or chemicals to use
Mess-free eject feature
Lightweight aluminum shaft

Fiskars 7870 Uproot Lawn and Garden Weeder Overview

Our UpRoot Weed and Root Remover makes it easy to remove invasive plants from your lawn without kneeling, bending over or using harsh, costly herbicide. It features four serrated, stainless-steel claws that grab weeds by the root for clean removal, plus an easy-eject mechanism on the handle that clears the head between uses. The durable aluminum handle is extra-long to help you reach every weed without kneeling or straining your back by bending.

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American Lawn Mower 1404-16 16-Inch Standard Push Light Reel Lawn Mower With T-Style Handle Feature

16-inch cutting width
10-inch composite wheels
Easy height adjust from 1/2-inch to 1-3/4-inch
Corrosion resistant, zinc-plated handle with plastic grips

American Lawn Mower 1404-16 16-Inch Standard Push Light Reel Lawn Mower With T-Style Handle Overview

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American Lawn Mower 1415-16 16-Inch Hand Push Reel Mower

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American Lawn Mower 1415-16 16-Inch Hand Push Reel Mower Feature

Hand pushed reel lawn mower ideal for low-growing grass up to 4 inches high
Cutting heights from 1/2 to 2-1/4 inches with adjustable 4-section roller and 3-position adjustable wheel height
Tempered alloy steel reel and bed knife blade with unbreakable steel side plate
10" durable composite wheels with radial tread tire
16" cutting width

American Lawn Mower 1415-16 16-Inch Hand Push Reel Mower Overview

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American Lawn Mower 1415-16 16-Inch Hand Push Reel Mower Specifications

In these modern times, where channel surfing is rapidly becoming the nation’s most popular sport, the American Lawn Mower Company suggests to return to a simpler time with this hand push reel mower. The mower runs solely on manpower, thus saving valuable resources such as gasoline, oil, and electricity while simultaneously eliminating the noise and air pollutions frequently associated with fuel-run lawn mowers. Additionally, this mower combines necessary yard work with exercise, improving both the user’s lawn and cardiovascular health. Owners of hand push mowers also benefit from a lack of fuel expenses, and may also save by allowing grass clippings to mulch for natural fertilization.

This hand push mower provides best results when used on grasses no longer than 3 to 4 inches high. Regular lubrication of the bearings and blades with WD-40 further the success of this mower. The mower features four spider five blades, ball bearing reel. With an adjustable four-section roller, the mower has a cutting length range of 1/2 to 2-1/4 inches. Both the reel and blades are constructed from tempered alloy steel and are held in place by an unbreakable steel plate. The cast iron wheels measure 10 inches in diameter and the mower covers a width of 16 inches. The mower weighs 32 pounds upon shipping with some assembly required. --Jessica Reuling

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American Lawn Mower 1705-16 16-Inch Bent Reel Mower

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American Lawn Mower 1705-16 16-Inch Bent Reel Mower Feature

Hand pushed bent reel mower specifically designed to cut low-growing, creeping grasses
Cutting heights from 1/2 to 2-1/4 inches with adjustable 7-section roller and 3-position adjustable wheel height
Made of durable tempered alloy steel; unbreakable steel side plate; 4-spider 7-blade, ball bearing reel design
10-inch composite wheels with radial tread tires; 1-inch welded torsion bar frame; painted flare-style cushion-grip handles
16-inch cutting width; assembles in 10-15 minutes

American Lawn Mower 1705-16 16-Inch Bent Reel Mower Overview

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American Lawn Mower 1705-16 16-Inch Bent Reel Mower Specifications

The American Lawn Mower Company 16-inch bent reel mower is a simple, efficient, and effective blade-and-reel mower, fueled by manpower and specifically designed to cut low-growing, creeping grasses. Made of durable tempered alloy steel with an unbreakable steel side plate, this 4-spider, 7-blade, ball bearing reel design gives you cutting heights ranging from 1/2 inch to 2-1/4 inches using the adjustable 7-section roller and 3-position adjustable wheel height. This mower features durable 10-inch composite wheels with radial tread tires and molded hub caps, 1-inch torsion bar frame, flare-style painted handles with cushioned grips, and a 16-inch cutting width for quick, maneuverable action. This mower can be put together quickly in 10 to 15 minutes.

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Electrical Safety For Homes and Small Businesses

Visual Inspections

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Many problems are obvious to the trained eye. Look at all the leads to appliances. These should only have the outer insulation showing. If this is damaged, the lead should either be shortened, cutting out the damaged piece, or replaced altogether. Damage usually occurs at either end of the lead. If the lead does not go into the plug properly, the plug should be rewired (see plugs); similarly at the other end. If the lead has been damaged in the middle (a common occurrence with vacuum cleaners, hedge trimmers, lawn mowers, etc.), the lead should either be replaced or reconnected with a proper lead connector (2 or 3 core depending on whether the lead is earthed or not), which has proper cable grips for the lead going in and out. Using 'choc. blocks' and/or insulation tape for reconnecting leads is not advised.

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Any damage to the casing of appliances should be repaired. Live parts should be well protected from the outside casing, and if this contains any metal, in most cases the appliance should be earthed. (Many old table and floor lamps, particularly home made ones, are not earthed even when they have metal parts. These should be re-wired with 3 core cable.) It is permitted for 'double insulated' products not to have an earth (even some with metal outside parts). In this case there must be at least two layers of insulation between live parts and the outside. If the product has been bought from a reputable dealer in the last few years, and is not earthed, it is probably OK.

Any signs of overheating (black or burning marks etc.) indicate a problem (see later).

Many people think seeing sparks at switches (more commonly in the dark) indicates a problem, but this is normal in most cases. Special switches are available which do not spark, but these are expensive and only necessary in environments where there are inflammable materials around.

Feeling and Listening

Anything that feels hot to the touch (often accompanied by signs of burning) indicates a bad connection, except of course in heaters themselves. So does a crackling sound. This often occurs between plug and socket and could indicate a bad contact between these two. In this case one or the other, or often both, should be replaced. If say a plug has become worn, continued use of it will often cause the socket it is plugged into, to become worn as well, and in this case both should be replaced. A simple way to tell if the socket is worn, is to plug something else into it with a good looking plug, and see if it overheats with this.

Bad contacts can occur at other places too. They can often be cured by rewiring so that all connections are tight and well insulated.

If an otherwise seemingly good lead seems to be getting hot, it usually indicates it is not up to the job, and needs to be replaced by a thicker one. This is particularly true of extension leads (see later).

If a 'tingle' is felt when touching an appliance, it indicates a serious fault, and the appliance should not be used until this has been rectified.

Sockets

All sockets can be tested with a relatively cheap (around £5) socket tester. For a UK version, see the link below, but these are also available in other countries for their particular type of socket. They usually have three lights and when plugged into a socket, if all three lights come on, the socket is wired correctly. If only two, one or no lights come on, there is a fault and the combination of lights tells you what that fault is. Sockets should preferably be switched so that the supply to any appliance can be turned off in an emergency.

Plugs

This applies to UK square 3 pin plugs, but the same principles apply to other types.
If the plug is not of the moulded type (these cannot be repaired - they must be cut off, discarded and replaced if faulty) unscrew the cover and inspect the plug. The cable grip must grip the outer insulation of the lead. The international colour code is: brown to live terminal (the one with the fuse connected to it), blue to neutral (opposite to the live) and green or green/yellow to the top earth terminal. Each contact should be secure, with little or no uninsulated wire showing outside the terminal. There should be little slack on the live and neutral; the earth lead can be left slacker, so that if the lead is pulled out, the earth is the last one to come out. The correct fuse for the appliance should be fitted in the plug. The most common values are 3A, 5A and 13A. Use 3A for appliances up to 700 watts (e.g. lamps, much electronic equipment, etc.), 5A up to 1200 watts (some drills, hair dryers, etc) and 13A up to 3000 watts (most heaters, kettles, washing machines, tumble driers etc.). A rating plate somewhere on the appliance should tell you the wattage. If it gives the current (in amps.) instead, this can be easily converted to watts by multiplying be the mains voltage (e.g. a 2A appliance running off a 240V mains would have a wattage of 480).

The old plugs with uninsulated live and neutral pins should be replaced, so that a plug half pulled out of a socket is safe, even if someone pokes a metal object between plug and socket.
Pins on plugs should be shiny brass (brass is used because it contains copper, a good conductor, but is stronger than copper). If they are dull or dirty, they should be cleaned with emery cloth or replaced.

Increasing the no. of sockets

In these days of a profligacy of computer and other electronic equipment, there are often not enough sockets available and there are various ways of increasing these. The best way is to use a suitable extension lead, which can have 2, 4, 6, 8 or 10 separate sockets and each socket can be switched individually or not. Alternatively, socket converters can be used. These plug into a socket and 4 or 3 switched new sockets are then available. There is no lead associated with these. Mains adaptors (certainly unswitched and unfused ones) should be avoided.

Extension leads have a plug on them, fused at the maximum current the lead will take, usually governed by the thickness and length of cable used on the lead. It is probably better to use a 13A lead in all cases (this is the maximum that should be drawn from a single socket). If the total power plugged into the lead exceeds what it is fused at, the fuse will blow. Very long leads should have a thicker cable, and those on a reel should be unwound fully to aid heat dissipation, if a current approaching their maximum is being used. If the lead gets warm (see earlier) it is a sign that it is reaching its maximum capacity.

Electrical Safety For Homes and Small Businesses

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Fiskars 6210 Momentum Reel Mower Grass Catcher Feature

Hooks onto the front of the Momentum? Reel Mower to capture grass clippings and keep your lawn clean
Easy, tool-free assembly
UV and mildew resistant polyester screen and heavy duty steel frame for long lasting performance
Adjusts to accommodate the Momentum?s best-in-class cut height range (1"?4")
Holds ½ bushel of grass clippings
Adjustable for best in class cut height range, 1 inch to 4 inches
For use with the fiskars momentum mower, simple tool-free assembly required

Fiskars 6210 Momentum Reel Mower Grass Catcher Overview

The World’s Most Advanced Reel Mower just got better with the addition of our sturdy, easy-to-use Grass Catcher. Simply hook the grass catcher onto the front of your Momentum Reel Mower, and it will capture all of your lawn clippings as you mow. It includes an adjustable-height design, built-in handle, polyester screen so you can see when it’s full, durable base for stability and heavy-duty steel frame. It even assembles quickly with no tools required.

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